Видео

0:32 what is that round thing on the exhaust

How do you clean the inner cv joint? What kind of solvent? and how would you inspect it for any damage? Thanks.

Double ringed a old honda

In your opinion, what model has more sturdy suspension w126 w140

I brought a 1970 with the parking brake down can't start the car

Fantastic. My niece and I have allocated 10 days for deep Maintenance dives in 2 1883 300sd. The location is scenic Big Bay in the Michigan UP, on the shore of Lake Independence. They live in renovated Henry Ford factory, with 16” poured concrete walls! 😆😆😂

Sounds like you use different cam bolts and they're tapping the block

You are the best ever

I was just gifted a similar make and model. This is my first project task for the rebuild I can’t wait to read this when I’m all finished with the restore. Thank have k you so much for making this video I intend to do the same with other vehicles and give you all the glory for being the one to teach the future techs of America.

For the next project, go for a W123.

Congrats on getting the engine/trans in the Corvette! I have always called them ty-wraps. It's from working in the electronics industry in the late 1970's, 80's.

I received a handy down 1985 Mercedes and for the longest time I could not open the trunk! I'm going to see and try this method and let you know if it works. ❤ Edit update. OH MY GOODNESS IT WORKED 😭😭 FINALLY I'M ABLE TO GET INTO MY MERCEDES. 😭❤❤ Thank you so so much for this video and tips!!

How do you turn the air conditioner on man I have an 84 diesel

Today, I successfully completed installation of the steering wheel security lock. I followed Impalaman's excellent video. I want to add a few items that might be helpful. First, I have a 380se which is not diesel powered. When I removed the steering lock, I was surprised to find there were no vacuum ports on the lock. However, the one I purchased from Mercedes had the two ports as shown in Impalaman's video. So I removed the two vacuum nozzles since I figured the vacuum was for diesel powered MBZ not gasoline .. That was correct as I found out. Secondly, I had a very difficult time removing the 10mm screw to remove the steering wheel. Finally I applied a $20 HF heat gun and it easily cracked with a breaker bar. I held the steering wheel with a 2x4 placed through the lower opening on the wheel and the end resting on the bottom sill of the door. This gave a solid stop for the wrenching. I did not lock the wheel for fear of damaging it. I did not use my impact gun because the 10mm screw is brass and there have been many instances of stripping it. Thirdly, as I mentioned in a previous post, your key has to be in position#1 to remove the plug at rear of the steering lock... In addition, the key must be in Position #1 when removing the lock and installing the new one or you will not be able to fully press the little "button". Also position #1 to remove and install the black buzzer switch near the key hole.. NOTE: if your key won't turn, try pulling it towards you very slightly while turning it..

is it possible to find those balls and springs mine are lost :/

Could you provide the Part Number for the crossmember tranny mount you are installing at the 11:35 minute mark?

I watched this vid all the way through. I really like the warts and all - you are human like all of us and you weren't afraid to show the bits you struggled with which is so true to life. The commentary was excellent and having owned my own garage business many years ago I learned so much from you. This is the best informative vid I've had the pleasure to watch - WELL DONE & THANK YOU! Ps I liked the power press - I reckon if you're a bit handy you could make one of these!

Looking into a 99-02 Silverado 1500 short bed street truck build. Awd, manual transmission, 12 bolt rear and 4.10 gear ratio. I'm thinking either ls1 or 496. Which one would you guys recomend? I know 496 would have much more torque and low end punch, worse mpg and would be much harder on the components. The ls1 would get good gas mileage, probably sound better and be much easier on the CV axles, trans and rear. Would assume the all iron, lower revving 8.1 would last longer though and be more durable under stress. Anyone with hands on experience experience with both give me their opinion? I ultimately want to build both. My interest in the ls1 and 8.1 is basically equal. I think the 8.1 is more practical in a pickup. But I owned an 01 camaro and the ls1 felt so much different than any other ls based engine. Put power down and had a sound that was completely unique to the ls1. It also got over 25 mpg on the interstate and that blew my mind. I can also put "5.7" or "350" on the side of the hood or tailgate lol

THE HOIST IS OFF!!!

The struggle is real! These old vetts, omg. To be doing this solo is a real pain.

Nice job. Your getting there.

Another great video. You’re gonna have a great car!

Glad you got the engine back in the car. I was feeling your pain when removing that rad core support. I had to replace mine while replacing the a/c system with all new components including new rad. I was mouthing ‘it comes out from the top’. My core support had some rust holes. Bear in mind that the core support adds structural support for the nose of the car. I read that you need to support the nose while the core support is out. Also be careful about leaning and putting weight on the fenders or you will end up with a ‘ drooping nose’. I have also replaced the spark plug wires in the car and stayed with the original routing through the motor mounts. What a PITA…..

👍Surprised one of your kids, doesn't want to help you with the Corvette project.

A couple of things to remember if you are replacing the steering lock. The ignition key must be in the #1 position to be able to remove the 7 wire connector plug at rear of the steering lock. Otherwise you cannot remove it or the lock itself. The steering lock has a pin that you must push to remove the steering lock. Again, the ignition key must be in the #1 position to be able to push the pin down far enough so you can remove the lock from the dash..

creative guy. Wish I could follow along better. Gotta messed up cargo bay door seperating from the hinge.

I just came across this video. As usual your videos are very informative. I have to deal the same issue with my 300TD Wagon. My understanding is that Evapo-Rust can cause flash rust after use and tank should filled with fuel soon after treatment. Some have suggested to use a bit of radiator coolant and coat inside the tank and then drain. Coolant is like oil with rust preventive properties. Since it is toxic hopefully will also kills any remaining algae.

Wow,,, there's not supposed to be any clearance between the bearing cone and hub .if there is, u should replace the hub without any plans or modifications, that bearing will not last at all. When u tighten the castle nut ,u should tighten it enough to remove all play on the hub,this takes a lot af effort, cause the collapsible spacer takes a lot of pressure to preload it properly, This is very important.Do Not to over- tighten it, but there must not be any freeplay on the hub.

Those alignment pins were amazing did not know they made them.

The 5 speed is going to be AWESOME love the C3 Corvettes the best!

If u don't use the Mercedes-Benz special tool to crimp the can halves together, they usually leak.

Looks like it took u the whole day...

Thanks again Impalaman!! You helped me on the air pressure computer soldering, then on my inverter that smoked itself. I’ve been having the same problem with my 2000 380MBS slide. Now I have some things to try. Mine is worse than yours, though.. there’s a pushed-in area on the ceiling carpet stuff where the wood trim touches it and it REALLY grinds when I start it back in. Add another to-do to the list. Gotta LOVE it!

I think someone turned my trunk lock lever around. Mine works opposite, which means when you turn the key horizontal left, it won't come out, if I turn the key vertical, it comes out, but the vacuum cylinder draws the lever back in and opens the whole car. If I turn the key to the right horizontal, it locks the car and it stays locked until I want to open it. How do you take the lock out? There's one screw at the back.

Here is a suggestion for a 126 DIY video to add to your collection: How to remove rear rotors and also how to adjust emergency brake. When I changed rear rotors, I had a difficult time trying to remove them as they were rusted and no amount of banging on them worked. Finally I saw a video online of a guy who used a 3 jaw puller from Harbor freight and that pulled the rotors off. Around $30 at Harbor Freight.. ruclips.net/video/sZWfuaCEBMk/видео.html&ab_channel=Aloe%27sOutdoorChannel

I am redoing the front suspension and had an interesting situation installing new bearings on a brand new 126 spindle with factory installed TRW ball joint. We tried and tried to put the outer bearing on the spindle and it wouldn't go on. We concluded that either the bearing was too small or the spindle was too large and needed to be milled.! I went around to different machine shops and no one could help. So I went to the owner of a Indy MBZ who was former shop manager at Augusta Ga MBZ dealer and showed him the spindle and bearing. To my amazement, he slipped the bearing on the spindle in a few seconds and then took it off. "HOW DID YOU DO THAT?" I said. He said "you have to be very gentle because the tolerances are so small, any forcing it won't work." 30 years as a MBZ 126 mechanic helped a lot, too.😃 So I bought lunch for him and his crew. A small price for what he did..And, no pizza for you, but thanks for the great videos.😃

great video

And should the axle go on top of the springs, or does it matter?? Just asking

Or spacer as you call it

Where did you find the 1.5 spring seats? (Saddles?)

I'm doing the same, Mercedes-Benz C-126 generation 1 speedo cluster service. I'm trying to remove the top lenses but the white plastic overmold is a terrible stuck down mess onto the cluster housing. I never makes vidz, so I will. I fixed my clock by the way. It is not the capacitors. It is a small soldered ground pin which is used like a locator onto some solder to the negative connection on the clock pcb - it's a loose connection. If you remove the pcb clock assembly from the dial set, be careful. You can resolder or just route a wire between solder point and a ground and the clock will tick again.

Omg. I’ve been sitting on a new set of trim and looking for these steps for over a year! Thanks!

Thk you for this

I bought a UHaul tow dolly about 2 years ago. I have towed this unit about 25K miles over the 2 year period with no major issues. A very good unit. During your inspection, be sure to look under the swivel platform to make sure the horizontal locking pin is not missing that keeps the vertical center pin and swivel platform from coming loose from the main frame. Mine was missing the pin letting you lift the swivel pin straight out! So I used a 4.5" galvanized 3/8 bolt and lock nut to hold the pin and swivel platform in place. My research showed that my dolly was manufactured by Demco for UHaul, where special parts, if needed should be available for purchase by both firms.

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I did the front hub bearings in my Eldorado. Tough job and pricey. But they were dry as a bone.

How do I get ignition out with no key

If you’re not going to keep it original why even keep the L82? Only 200hp! My Prius is faster than that thing. Get a Jeg’s targetmaster long block with decent Edelbrock EFI and ignition, You’d easily have over 300hp.